Saturday, November 5, 2016

Farm to Table: Madison’s Movement

Photo Courtesy of Madison Area Chef's Network

 There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other that heat comes from the furnace.”
― Wisconsin Legend, Aldo Leopold, from A Sand County Almanac

Over the last few weeks we’ve been learning and sharing a lot about the health of our environment and the wonders of our food system. From the science of pollution and pesticides to the future of bees and cheese, our Curious Community has become informed and involved. That’s why this week we are celebrating the role education and community plays in creating positive change!
Wisconsin is home to many wonderful environmental and wellness programs aimed at educating and connecting residents of all of ages. Over the next few weeks we will focus on just a few of those programs and how they are impacting members of our Curious Community. So come along this week as we learn about the farm-to-table movement in Madison and the outreach efforts that are bringing together science, economics and community to create something delicious!  

The Disappearance of the Family Farm:
           Growing up in a farming community, Theresa Feiner watched as family farms disappear from her neighborhood.  Though she didn’t keep count, the Census of Agriculture did, and the numbers proved that Feiner’s observations were true, Wisconsin was losing family run farms. In fact, according to the Census of Agriculture, Wisconsin lost more than 10,000 farms between 1982 and 2012. Aware of these changes but unsure of the underlying cause, Feiner began to wonder what was causing this shift and what the implications of these changes would be for the future of our food supply. Driven by her own curiosity and a passion for fresh, high-quality food, Feiner, who is now the Executive Director of The Madison Area Chefs Network, has dedicated her life to understanding these issues and developing programs that help chefs to connect with fresh, local and wholesome food suppliers.
          After attending the University of Wisconsin-Madison and earning her degree in geography with an emphasis in economics, Feiner spent a few years working with various agriculture and food groups such as the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture and the Consumer Protection (DATCP) and the Research, Education, Action and Policy on foods group (REAPS).  In these roles, Feiner was able to create a network of friends and food lovers while learning important lessons about Wisconsin’s agriculture and its impact on the local food system. Her passion for the food, health and the overall wellbeing of her local community led her to align with the Madison Area Chef’s Network, a group looking to expand upon the farm-to-table movement.

Food For Thought:
         Farm-to-table is a social movement that essentially promotes the idea of eating local and developing an understanding of the local food system. Some of the benefits of eating local include:
·       increased economic benefits for your local community
·       minimized transportation costs and associated environmental impacts
·       increased understanding of the local environment and food supply
·       increased community connections
        The Madison Area Chef’s Network has been inspired by this idea working to “strengthen Madison's food system through collaboration and community.” Launched in 2014, the network includes chefs that are from brick-and-mortar restaurants that are, locally-owned, located in Southern Wisconsin and have independent capacity to make purchasing and marketing decisions. While still a young organization, Feiner is encouraged by their early success. In fact, the organization currently includes 40-50 different restaurants and 20-30 different chefs. Feiner says she feels lucky to “work with really awesome restaurants and chefs who are all interested in sustainable agriculture and making food more transparent.”
         While the organization offers educational and networking opportunities for chefs, members are also interested in sharing their knowledge and food with those outside of the chef community. In fact, the organization hosts several annual events including the popular Chef Week, which includes more than 30 different farm to table events that encourage chefs to “combine menus, trade kitchens, and engage in a bit of healthy competition.”
          Another popular event includes the annual Yum Yum Fest, which allows members of the Madison Area Chef’s Network to share one of their most popular dishes with community members in a festival-style setting. While a great opportunity for networking, this event is really all about community as proceeds go towards local charities.

The Next Generation of Farm- to-Table:
           While the Madison Area Chef’s Network has been deeply involved in the current farm-to-table movement, Feiner credits entrepreneur Odessa Piper with bringing the farm-to-table movement to Madison.  In fact, in 1976 Piper opened L’Etoile, a farm-to-table or back-to the-land restaurant which is now owned and operated by James Beard Award–winning chef and Madison Area Chef’s Network member Tory Miller. L’Etoile remains a farm-to-table restaurant but it has also served as the inspiration for many other restaurants around Madison. As Feiner said, “Odessa Piper was part of the first generation of culinary leaders, but now I like to think we’re on the second generation, or at least 1.5, where a lot of those founders have inspired their employees to go out on their own and create new restaurants that focus on this. I think in Madison we’re super lucky to have diversified agricultural systems, so it’s like this magical combination of the right people, the right environment and the right inspiration.”
            Of course, the farm-to-table movement is based in science. Chefs must gain a thorough understanding of chemistry, agriculture, economics and more in order to continue the movement into the next generation. So, join us Sunday as we explore the ways in which a local culinary program is training the next generation of farm-to-table chefs.

Learn from my Sources:
Table 1. Historical Highlights: 2012 and Earlier Census Years. (2012). Retrieved October 20, 2016, from https://www.agcensus.usda.gov/Publications/2012/Full_Report/Volume_1,_Chapter_1_State_Level/Wisconsin/st55_1_001_001.pdf


Interested in the Madison Area Chef’s Network?
Reach out to Theresa and her team at: info@madisonchefs.com

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